If I wrote that I had breakfast with the Bishop of Winchester on Wednesday l5th September, would you believe me? Well, it is true, I did, along with over one hundred others, in the Great Hall, overlooked by the splendid Round Table.
We were there to take part in the inaugural Pilgrims' Trail walk, a 155 mile medieval footpath that links the ancient shrines of Winchester and Mont Saint Michel, Normandy. Approximately fourteen people, together with friends from France would be walking the whole trail to Mont Saint Michel over two weeks. Over eighty including myself and my friends Jean and Pat, would be taking part walking the first section, Winchester to Bishop's Waltham, a distance of approximately eleven miles, 18 km. We were divided into four groups for the staggered starting times. The 'group one' pilgrims would be at the Norman Sanctuary for the Feast of Saint Michael on 29th September. The cult of Saint Michael was widespread from the Ninth Century. By the time of the Reformation, there were more than 600 Churches in England dedicated to Saint Michael. The nearest to Saint George's is Saint Michael and All Angels at Paulsgrove.
Having feasted on an excellent breakfast (a far cry from the bread and ale the pilgrims probably received), we were addressed by the Chairman of the County Council who told us that it was the idea of our French colleagues, L'Association 'Les Chemins du Mont Saint Michel' (The Paths of Mont Saint Michel Association in Normandy), that the medieval trail be re-opened. Their support and encouragement had been of tremendous assistance to the Hampshire County Council.
The Bishop then added his support to the project which, he said linked the past, present and future intertwined with friendship, tourism and other cultures. Full marks to the Bishop for also including, very appropriately, that Jesus is The Way, The Truth and The Life in his address.
We then moved off in our groups to Winchester Cathedral to pause at the Shrine of Saint Swithin. Saint Swithin was the kindly and humble prior of the Old Minster. I am sure you are familiar with the legend that links forty days of rain with the Saint. A visit to the Lady Chapel followed to inspect a pilgrim figure carved into the end of a stall and a mural depicting our Lady healing a pilgrim, in the background of which is shown the sanctuary at Mont Saint Michel.
Pilgrims would have purchased Badges (symbolic of the Saints) and lead ampullae or flasks filled with Holy water, to take with them. They would be attired in long, flowing robes, the men wearing wide brimmed hats, with pigskin water bottles near at hand (possibly not containing water though!).
So after a pilgrims' blessing from the Dean, we moved to the starting position at the west door. As we waited for our turn to start, I wondered what the medieval pilgrims would have thought of us, dressed in various forms of trousers and shorts, trainers and walking boots. Rucksacks equipped for all weathers, plastic bottles of drink, cameras and some fascinating apparatus called walking poles. Then we were waved on.......
Lynn Winter
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