BROCÉLIANDE

The pursuit of the myths and legends in the Arthurian Cycle has led me to places such as Tintagel, Glastonbury, Cadbury Hill, and elsewhere in this country, to discuss and dispute with others the sites of Arthur's twelve battles - as expressed by the 9th century Welsh monk Nennius - and to conjecture the location of Mons Badonicus and beautiful city of Camelot. I repeatedly came across perplexing references, such as that Merlin went to a great forest after his work as advisor to king Arthur, of Lancelot who came from 'across the sea', of Viviane and Morgan le Fay who had castles within a forest in another land. The work of the 12th century troubadour Chrétien de Troyes referred to this place as 'Brocéliande'. I resolved to find it, travelling to a land formerly known as Armorica and now as Brittany.

With the aid of some references, but largely by chance, I found a camp-site near to the Avenue Lancelot du Lac in the village of Paimpont in central Brittany and there discovered that it was within a mysterious forest, much reduced in size but still extensive. It was referred to as 'Brocéliande' and exploration within it revealed many places with Arthurian connexions:

 La Fontaine de Barenton - the fountain of Barenton, where the sorcerer Merlin met and fell in love with the beautiful Viviane. Merlin had come to Brocéliande to live there in seclusion. The fairy Viviane there enslaved him and love inflamed them both. Viviane enclosed him in a magic invisible circle (said to be composed of nine other circles). It would have been possible to escape but he joyfully accepted his captivity for years. It is not difficult for the discerning and mature adult to interpret the nature of his 'incarceration'! The waters, which are reputed to have health-giving properties, are near to a spot called 'foolish thoughts' (folle pensée). Water from the fountain sometimes spills over on to the Perron de Merlin (Merlin Steps) which is said to unleash wild storms.

 The land and lake of Comper which was the area where Viviane brought up the young Lancelot in a crystal chatêau.

 Le tombeau de Merlin - the tomb of Merlin (marked by megaliths which are much older in time).

 La Fontaine de Jouvance - the fountain of Youth, also said to have rejuvenating properties. Needless to say it had no effect upon me whatsoever!

 Le Val sans Retour - The Valley of No Return wherein the unworthy enter at their peril is a picturesque site. The unsurfaced path leads to the rock of False Lovers (Rocher des Faux Amants). It is believed to be here that the witch Morgane (Morgan le Fay) is said to have entrapped wicked youths. I asked at the local village about the Vale and no-one admitted having gone into it. When I made two strenuous efforts to get in as deeply as I could, I was defeated both times. The undergrowth was impenetrable and I had to give up as the light was fading. Perhaps the failure was just as well as I too might not have returned!

 Le pont du secret - the place where Lancelot pledged his love for Queen Guinevere (wife of King Arthur).

Legend also has it that Joseph of Arimathea carried a few drops of Christ's blood to Britain. He rested and stayed for a while in the forest of Brocéliande. From there his exact whereabouts were not traced and the precious cup was lost. In the sixth century King Arthur and his knights sought this - the Holy Grail. Only a warrior with a heart of pure gold could win it. Sir Percival was that knight (Wagner's Parsifal). Much of this and other legends of this area are derived from Sir Thomas Malory's Morte d'Arthur, the excellent analysis and commentary King Arthur in legend and History by Richard Barber, Alfred Lord Tennyson's Idylls of the King and the writings and songs of Chrétien de Troyes.

Close by my camp-site was a XIIth century abbey, the original edifice being founded by King Judicaël of Brittany in 645AD. It was ornate and opulent yet in poor decorative condition. A dilapidated notice inside revealed that it had major reconstructive works every two centuries. The next one is due in 2100 and appeals are made now for money so that this may take place. An advertisement outside indicated that there was a Celtic concert that first evening of my arrival. I went to it. It was of a Harp and Voice recital by a musician called Myrdhin (which is an alternative spelling for Merlin), who started his concert by an unaccompanied druidical chant. The sound resonated throughout the lovely building and the audience were captivated by the atmospheric condition. I noticed that the inflexions, the metrical feet of each melodic line and the note changes were remarkably similar to that of English Plainsong and I mentioned this afterwards to Myrdhin. The singer acknowledged this to be so and added that the music was holy to the druidical persuasion - I was struck by the incongruity of a pagan hymn being readily accepted in a Christian setting.

In my further curiosity I came across the Church at Tréhorenteuc en Brocéliande theoretically dedicated to St Eutrope but actually celebrating St Onenne. In 1942 Abbé Henri Gillard was sent there by the church authorities. The parish was in a poor, run-down condition and the few villagers extremely poor, suspicious and unfriendly. The living was regarded as a backwater from which there was no hope of advancement or promotion - the religious equivalent of being consigned to imprisonment. Those who have been in the armed forces will be familiar with the term 'punishment posting' - for that was how it was regarded, although nowhere is there any credible evidence as to what the new rector was supposed to have done to deserve it.

Here was an example of those gifted people who can turn tragedy into triumph, who regard rejection as a challenge. As the French say - reculer pour mieux sauter - the priest certainly used the failure of ecclesiastical advancement as an opportunity for success. Over the years, Abbé Gillard decided to do something significant about his plight and that of his wretched parishioners. He took the legends, the druidical ideas and anything else which was believed in or followed (such as astrological signs, pagan symbols and the Greek alphabet, especially Alpha and Omega) which he related to the ages of society (can we recall the Age of Aquarius?) and fused all the symbolism into art forms, inside his church, connecting them skilfully to Christian messages. He then charged people to be taken on guided tours of the paintings, statues, mosaics, banners and other forms depicted. By this means the parish became very prosperous, the parishioners shared in the wealth, and the church (the only one uniquely venerating St Onenne the devout daughter of a King of Brittany), became famous. Abbé Gillard made his church a place for meditation, for contemplation and for prayer and goodwill throughout the world.

In the church and sacristy, mosaics and paintings illustrate the legend of the Valley of No Return and Barenton fountain. In the chancel there is a stained glass window of the Grail and a painting of the Knights of the Round Table. An imposing monument outside is of Abbé Gillard, and the nearby tourist office is often besieged by visitors and sightseekers in addition to those with more sober errands.

Truly, the forest of Brocéliande is full of enchantment, of mystery and matters of the spirit - and so exerts its fascination to the visitor of today.

Rod Dawson