A VISIT TO OUR LINK IN GHANA

My Visit to St Mary's Church Axim (pronounced AZSIM)

We arrived in the beautiful Coconut Grove Hotel at Elmira in the early afternoon of Wednesday, 18th. June. The hotel is situated right on the beach, and the accommodation is provided in chalets, each with its own twin bedded room, double room, toilet and shower. I shared the double room. With air conditioning, fans and a small refrigerator we were in the height of luxury.

Most of the group left almost immediately to visit the Kakum national park, which boasts rope bridges arranged high above the canopy of the forest. A few others remained to laze by the outdoor pool. I took myself to a little shelter by the sea, where the breeze was cool, to complete the embroidery of the last few names on the cloth which I was to present to the M.U. Link Branch at Agona Kwanyako. I had been unable to work at night as the power was too low. I completed my task as it grew dusk and so had the pool to myself for a swim, and I strolled along the edge of the surf.

Margaret Symonds wearing the dress designed and made for her by the Mothers' Union at Axim

I decided to shower and wash my hair before my three chalet mates returned only to discover that there was no light in the bathroom. I mistook a packet of plasters for a packet of shampoo and wondered why it seemed empty. Before I had completed my ablutions the phone rang. I was informed that visitors were awaiting me in the hotel reception area, about a third of a mile away. I dressed hastily but could not find my glasses (I had covered them with something in my suitcase). Beatrice Amoah (Diocesan President, Cape Coast), Subula Thompson (former Provincial President of West Africa) and Margaret Wilson (niece of Beatrice), from Agona Swedu (next village to Agona Kwanyako), were awaiting me. They had come to tell me that they would collect me at 6.00am. the following day and accompany me to Axim. I set my alarm clock for 5.20am. I was helped to reception, with all my baggage, by Julia from St John's Church, Fareham. We were there by 5.55am. and sat on the steps in the early morning sunshine for an hour before the car arrived. Julia had just enough time to return for the Corpus Christi Eucharist which was to be held in the hotel at 7.00am.

On arrival at Sekondi Cathedral I was shown the temporary resting place, against the wall of the Cathedral, of Bishop Theophilus Annobil, who, with his wife Grace, visited our parish in 1988. He had died in America of kidney failure earlier this year, but his funeral was held in Sekondi in April. Rev. Andrew Ashdown attended the service. It lasted seven hours. After a year the bishop's remains will be moved to their final resting place. We visited a sick Canon and called at the Cathedral Office to greet Nellie Anphia, who spent a week in our parish one Easter whilst studying at Selly Oak College, Birmingham. She hadn't changed at all and she sent greetings to you all. Mrs. Christine Gwira, the M.U. Diocesan President for Sekondi, provided us with breakfast in her home, and then, accompanied by a photographer, she drove us in her own car to Axim. Naturally we were late arriving in Axim. The roads were bad.

Axim is a poor fishing town on the coast west of Takoradi. It is the site of Ghana's second oldest fort. The triangular Fort São Antonio dates from the Portuguese era, around 1515. It was captured by the Dutch in 1642 and handed over to Britain in 1872. The fort's bastions have changed little since the 16th. century. Axim was once one of the busiest trading ports on the West African Coast. Its exports included gold, cotton and timber. In the colonial era Fort São Antonio was used as a regional administrative centre, and it continued to house the government offices into early 2000. The fort has now been opened to tourism but, sadly, I had no time to visit it. Close to Axim are two beaches of almost breathtaking perfection.

When we reached St. Mary's Church the M.U. turned out in force to meet us, singing and led by a tiny flower girl who was beautifully dressed in the traditional Kente cloth. She is called Matilda. Father Mensah led us into the church, which has been repaired and re-roofed following a devastating storm. (St. George's has helped to pay for the work.) It was quite large and airy. They intend to redecorate when more money is available. There were lengthy introductions to the Church Wardens and members of the P.C.C. Father Mensah gave a welcoming address, and this was followed by the Church Warden's greetings, interspersed with songs from the M.U. A fairly large congregation filled the Church, which surprised me as we had arrived mid-morning on a working day. Some of the girls from St. Mary's Girls School had been granted time out to meet us.

Then came the presentations. For me, the M.U. members had designed and made a dress in orange and yellow. They also gave me a wooden picture of a woman with the word 'Akwaaba'. It means 'Welcome - we embrace you'. Two stoles of expensive Kente cloth were presented to me as a gift from the church members. I put on the dress and head-piece and we danced. A large chasuble in Kente cloth, together with a matching stole, had been woven and made up to be used by the incumbent at St. George's. The message read 'To the people of St. George's from the people of Axim'. I made a speech of thanks using one of the Church Wardens as an interpreter.

My gifts were very insignificant. Father and Mrs. Mensah accepted a plate and stand showing St. George's in 1995. Father Malcolm had signed a copy of 'The History of the Old St. George's Church' for them. I gave small gifts to each of the M.U. members (i.e. bookmarks etc.) and finally a gift to their Diocesan president, Christine Gwira, who had facilitated the visit. Since my return we have formally linked our branch of the M.U. to the one at St. Mary's Church.

Lunch was served where we sat. A welcome Fanta and biscuits were followed by rice and local fish served with a sauce, all prepared by the M.U. Fish is the only source of income, and I learned that the men are too poor to own boats. They work in teams with nets from the shore.

Many photographs were taken, and all too early we returned to Sekondi, where we said goodbye to Christine. We reached the Teacher's Hostel at Cape Coast as darkness fell. We ate supper in the hostel dining room, followed by cups of tea in Beatrice's room. I was exhausted, and was falling asleep soon after 9.00pm. It had been a very full and happy day. I shall never forget the welcome and the generosity of the people of Axim.

Margaret Symonds